Naughty 1990 – la moda e il suo tempo

The late Victorian period is known in England as Naughty Nineties (I Terribili ‘90): it refers to an epoch  of fun loving (= divertimento amoroso) and laxity (= rilassatezza morale). In this decade  the artist Aubrey Bearsdley operated, Oscar Wilde wrote his witty (= sagaci)  plays, Arthur Lasenby Liberty built up his laboratory in Regent Street and the suffragette movements  began their campaigns to get universal suffrage.
From 1890 to 1900 ladies’ fashion did not change a lot.

Gowns became simpler and more comfortable with quite plain skirts (= gone lisce)  and without bustle (= senza tanti ornamenti) and without trains (= strascichi).

The belts (= cincture) became quite popular and shoulders were emphasised by slightly (= leggermente) puffed sleeves (= maniche a sbuffo) and by flaps (= risvolti).

The collars (= colletti) were very high, sometimes with tips (= punte) under ears.

Towards the end of the century  the sleeves became straight (= dritte) , and small and ladies wore bell-shaped double skirt (= gonna doppia a forma di campana) , often with trains (= piccoli strascichi).

The hats became more and more decorated often with feathers (= piume)  or very large