gli uomini “vittoriani”

Victorian men’s fashion
Usually gentlemen wore a coat, waistcoat or  vest, and hat.  .
During the 1840’s with the opening of the trade with China, silk vests  (panciotti di seta) became important and quite inexpensive.  Toward the turn of the century (verso la fine delsecolo), wool and cotton vests became more common for daywear (abiti da giorno) as the three piece suit (vestito in tre pezzi) increased in popularity. 
The second half of the nineteenth century was dominated by the frock coat  for both day and evening. On formal occasions the tailcoats (vestito da uomo) – single and double breasted (singolo o doppio petto)– were mainly used. Gentlemen often wore vests that were cut longer,so the bottom of the vest to show beneath the coat (così si intravvedeva l’orlo delpanciotto sotto il vestito)
From the 1870’s on the sack suit grew ( crebbero) in popularity. 
Thetrousers of the mid 1800’s got to the navel (arrivavano all’ombelico) 
The fabrics (stoffe) were striped (a righe) or checked (a quadretti).   
Belts (cincture)  weren’t used.  Rather, suspenders or braces of leather  (bretelle di pelle) or canvas were common.
As to the hats , towards the 1890, top hats (cappelli a cilindro) – for parties and formal events – , wide-brimmed “wide awake” style ( stile con l’ala larga) and the flat topped “pork pie”(cappelli con il capo piatto)  were soon displaced (rimpiazzati) by  derbies or bowlers, short-brimmed (dallala corta) with rounded crowns(corone tonde) which became more common.
Victorian shirts were cut much more fully than modern shirts. as it was not possible to wash shirt as  frequently as nowadays,  men wore band collar shirts (camice col collare) and for dress occasions added a separate collar and cuff (collari) . 
The most basic accessory for every Victorian gentleman was the cravat, from the basic  to cravats with decorative prints (fantasia) and wide cut black (larghe e nere).
Another important accessory was the pocket watch and fob (orologio da taschino con catena), usually hanging from the front vest pockets.
Most men also carried walking sticks ( bastoni da passeggio)of various styles and often wore gloves