la moda durante il primo conflitto mondiale

During the First world War clothing changes according to the necessities. Women were forced to to work and started wearing more comfortable clothes suited (adatti) to their everyday life.

Colours became darker and the shapes (forme) became simpler because many of them had to go and visit wounded (feriti) people or /and go to funerals .

Skirts became shorter – above the ankles (sopra le caviglie) and  without large undergowns (sottogonne).

The magazines called this  new “fashion” war crinoline, a way of dressing that was considered practical and patriotic.

Besides people had to give funds (fondi) for the war and could spend less money on clothing. For this reason Coco Chanel created cheap jewels made of glass or crystal beads (perle). The shoes were high heeled (coi tacchi alti) and – especially for elegnat occasions  – they took inspiration from Tango, with criss-crossing straps at the ankles (lacci che si incrocaivano fino alla caviglia)

At work and during the war period heels got shorter and the laced shoes (scarpe con legacci) had round toes (avevano la punta arrotondata).

As to the hats- which at the beginning of the century had large brims (larghe falde) – became smaller and with flat brims (falda moscia). And the hair? Women started wearing short hair  – a fashion introduced in Paris in 1909 and that beacme symbol of avant guard and of women’s fight for their rights .