In the late 1970s Yves St Laurent introduced the peasant looking style. Blouses (camicette da donna) had shoulders necklines (il collo che cadeva sulle spalle), and laces (lacci), skirts were gathered (raccolte) into tiers (a starti) , clothes were embroidered (ricamati), with floral patterns (disegni floreali). The colours in vogue were dusty rose (rosa cipria), Prussian blue (blue scuro brillante), bottle green (verde bottiglia), rust (ruggine). Yves St. lauren also pioneered (fu il pioniere) long, minimalist, androgynous styles for women introducing the tuxedo smoking popularized in photographs by Helmut Newton.